Before installing your kitchen it helps to have the following items to hand...
Your IKEA design - the unit numbers match your Plykea Visual
Your Plykea Visual - the numbered items (which match your ikea plan) refer to the fronts, cover panels, filler panels and spacers. These are also engraved on the back of each item.
Your Packing List - delivered with your order, the unit numbers refer back to your IKEA design and Plykea Visual. The hand written letters refer to the labelled wrapped package - A, B, C etc
Top Tips for Install - details below
IKEA installation guide - downloadable from IKEA.com, printed leaflets included with your IKEA order
Damage and Returns
Our Quality Control ensures that each of your items are carefully checked prior to wrapping. Occasionally during the manufacturing process the protective film on the laminate gets damaged. However, we check the material to ensure it has not been scratched and then tape over the area to give your fronts continued protection during installation. It can look a bit haphazard if there are lots of tape patches but we've found it's the best way to ensure your order is kept pristine until all building work is complete!
We urge you to check your order prior to installation within 48 hours of delivery. Please ensure that your installer is aware of how to safely handle and store your components. Any issues, please let us know immediately. If you have any immediate issues with your installation please contact us via email [email protected].
Storing your Components
It is important to keep your items flat prior to installation to prevent the items from bending, bowing or warping. If there are long doors/ panels with foam corners also add additional support batons in the middle to prevent bowing. It is also important to keep them out of direct sunlight, particularly wood fronts, to avoid sun ‘bleaching’. Please ensure your fitter is aware of this.
Visual / Item List / Packing List
Each individual item is numbered following the Ikea unit numbers. As there may be multiple items in one pack, this list identifies what can be found within each pack. Each front is engraved on the reverse side, either bottom centre or near a hinge cup, to easily map out which front or panel goes where. A stack of fronts will also include a letter - i.e 1A, 1B, 1C - from bottom to top. For veneer fronts it’s essential this sequence is followed to maintain the grain continuity.
KEY CP = Cover Panel, FP = Filler Panel, SP = Spacer Panel, TP = Top Panel, U = Underside Panel, BK = Back Panel.
Protective Film
It’s common for the laminate protective film to be damaged during the production, however we thoroughly check items for damage before taping over the area to give them full protection during installation. Keep these on until installation is complete to keep the fronts pristine. Do not leave the protective film on for more than a few weeks as the lettering can mark the laminate, especially if in direct sunlight. The masking tape can also be tricky if not removed relatively quickly.
Cutting
Cover Panels, Filler Panels and Plinths are supplied oversized. Cover panels can be trimmed face up with a sacrificial board underneath. Cutting requires a sharp blade. Sand and seal cut edges with sandpaper and a couple of coats of Saicos satin matt hardwax oil.
Worktops
Our worktops are delivered over-sized allowing for a service void, flexible overhang and scribing on-site. Holes for sinks and hobs need to be cut on-site. We only finish the edges that do not require cutting. Worktops can be joined with a Mason’s mitre, using biscuit dowel and connecting zip bolts. Seal the joints with a colour matched sealant. If you do encounter a problem, please do not fit the worktops before contacting us. Once installed we are unable to take responsibility for damaged worktops
Spacer Panels
Spacer Panels should be installed as you are assembling your carcasses. We recommend attaching them by clamping and then screwing from the inside of the carcass, utilising the pre-drilled holes so that the screw head is hidden. We supply them in pairs, 1 sits at the front of the carcass, 1 near the back to ensure even spacing and prevent the carcass from twisting. The front Spacer Panel should project approx 0.75" from the front edge of the carcass so that it sits flush with a closed-door/ drawer.
Bump-ons
A bump-on is a clear 0.7inch thick self-adhesive bump supplied by IKEA. These stick on the reverse side of the front to stop it from coming into contact with the carcass and banging. As this adds to the depth, cover panels or spacers need to be fitted with the tolerance added on. Keep this in mind for spacer panels too.
Spacer Panels for Wall Cabinets
If you decide not to have Cover Panels running under your wall cabinets there will be a visible gap on the underside between the cabinets. Your installer will need to mitre (cut them at a 45-degree angle) the Spacer Panels and join the lengths to create an 'L' shape so that the gap will be filled. The 'L' should be sufficient to prevent any twisting in the carcass, however, for a rock solid fixing, the excess offcut can always be attached near the back.
Spacer Panels for 'Framing' the Carcass
Some customers like the total plywood finish so we supply Spacer Panels to run along the top of their carcasses as well as in-between to give a 'Framed' aesthetic. We supply these Spacer Panels slightly over length so that your installer can cut them to length on-site for an exact finish. *please also see Cover Panels
Cover Panels & Worktops
We supply Cover Panels at 26" deep as opposed to IKEA's standard of 25" and Worktops at 27.5" deep to give you and your installer flexibility with your installation. IKEA have designed SEKTION so that plumbing and other services run underneath the carcass, however, in our experience some kitchen fitters prefer to screw a wooden batten to the wall which steps the kitchen out and creates a service void behind the carcass. Therefore, our Cover Panels allow enough material for a standard piece of wooden stud + the carcass + the door + approx 0.5" of play. Worktops have an additional 1" of play for you to tailor your overhang. The excess material can be easily cut off, allowing your installer to 'scribe' the panel and get a really snug fit against your wall.
To avoid chipping when cutting the Fenix/Formica, we recommend that you put masking tape over where you want to cut and use a sacrificial board underneath. Use a fine cut, super sharp blade in a plunge saw, not a jigsaw.
When specifying Cover Panels to run under a row of wall cabinets or on the back of an island we recommend making them slightly longer than required so that your installer can cut them to length on-site for an exact finish.
Drawers
If you find that your 'high' drawer is sitting too high, despite following the IKEA instructions to the letter, it could be that you need to turn the metal part around to lower the drawer, as image below. You may also find this video useful.
Align The Doors and Drawers
This information is included in the IKEA documents but we like to highlight it as so many fitters overlook this simple yet important final step. Adjusting the doors and drawers balances the shadow gap between units. Take a look at this great video to see how easy it is.
To adjust IKEA drawer doors, you need a Philips head screw driver. The drawer fronts can be adjusted left and right, up and down.
Left and right adjustments are made using the front screw. Both sides need to be altered equally, for example if one side is altered a 1/4 turn clockwise, the opposite side should be altered a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise.
For up and down adjustments turn the back screw, as below. Each side can be altered independently to make different adjustments to the height of each side.
On the taller drawer fronts, you can adjust the tilt front to back by turning the plastic screw at the start of the drawer rail.
IKEA doors can be adjusted up and down or tilted front to back and left and right. Use a Philips head screw driver to adjust the hinges as the below diagram shows.
